My 7 favourite embroidery stitches, and why

There were some stitches I really wanted to include in my stitch book, 150 Embroidery Stitches. Beautiful, intriguing, obscure and challenging ones. Like ceylon stitch and needle lace no. 34. But I knew they weren't stitches that were or would become part of my go-to stitch lexicon. Ones you do regularly when embroidering my patterns.

A common thread that emerged when compiling this list is a familiar one. I like to construct a design using the stitches themselves. Rather than simply embroider over a line. Another is that I thoroughly enjoy doing each of these stitches, for the feel of them as well as how they look.

So here goes, the stitches I come back to again and again. Starting from no. 7…

7. Detached chain stitch

You can do a lot with detached chain stitch. It can be used individually, in rows, layered or as a filling stitch. And arranged any which way.

The most traditional arrangement is the lazy daisy, the blue and green "flowers" on the left. Detached chain is sometimes called lazy daisy stitch. But I've used it arranged uniformly or randomly, in pairs, stacked or clustered, to create everything from petals, seeds and leaves to fish scales and wings.

It's easy to change the look of detached chain, by adjusting the length and breadth of the stitch or using more strands of thread. And you can get creative with the securing stitch, giving the chain a long tail or securing it with a knot instead. It also combines well with other stitches: a row of whipped chain up the centre, knots where two detached chains meet or a straight stitch inside each to add a hint of colour.

From patterns (clockwise spiral from top left) Persimmon + Fig, Jacobean Snowflake, Good Will Monograms, Skinny Fish, Roosting Bird, Stag, Wild Reeds, Chain Stitches, Delicate Monograms, Scandi Birds, Botanical Tree, Gingerbread Houses and Baubles.

6. Whipped chain stitch

Chain stitch is easy to whip. As opposed to stem stitch, for example. The individual chains are more defined and don’t overlap, so it's easier to see where to slide your needle. Chain also gives you a broad, substantial row of foundation stitches, which creates a beautiful "rope" of stitching when whipped. It sits up off the surface of the fabric.

It has the ability to really lift a design. I tend to whip mostly in white, because of the contrast it creates with the underlying colour. Using white makes the stitch really pop. That said, I came across some two-colour whipped chain in some of my earlier patterns while putting this together and it also looks really good.

The candy-striped effect feels festive to me. I use it fairly often in designs for Christmas and the holidays. And recently, to give the effect of snow on gingerbread houses.

From patterns (clockwise spiral from top left) Tree Stack, Baubles, Whipped Monograms, Sweet Hearts, Full Blooms, Jumbo Paisley, Good Will Monograms, Deco Alphabet, Christmas Hoop, Nature abc, Gingerbread Houses and Chain Stitches.

5. Fly stitch

The versatility of fly stitch is what draws me to it. It works well in so many ways. It looks good embroidered on straight and curved lines. You can stitch it as a row or as a single fly stitch. And use the latter to create patterning or as part of a motif, like the sepals of a flower bud. You can change the width, angle and spacing of the stitches as you go, making it fit for purpose. Do this enough and it can start to look like a different stitch.

Fly stitches can also be arranged to create motifs such as trees, snowflakes or ivy leaves – becoming the design itself. And combined with other stitches such as knots or detached chains. You can also use it to create vastly different leaf shapes. Long and narrow, small or rounded, even holly.

I like that fly stitch is easy to do well. And that it has a nice flow to doing it.

From patterns (clockwise spiral from top left) Christmas Hoop, Fly + Feather Stitches, Raindrops, Fine Lines Lettering, Botanical Tree, Wild Seagrass, Christmas Monograms, Wild Kelp, Wild Coral, Nature abc, Pot Plant, Apple + Pear and Fair Isle Reindeer.

4. Fishbone stitch

Fishbone is an elegant stitch. It curves well, works for rounded as well as sharp points and creates beautiful areas of solid colour. You can also alter the look of it by changing up the length and angle of your stitches. The three different leaf shapes on the left show how effective this can be.

I particularly like that you can use fishbone stitch to create an entire leaf, star or other shape without having to use any other stitch. It’s a great alternative to satin stitch, too. And easier to do.

From patterns (clockwise spiral from top left) Botanical Tree, Lemon + Lime, Christmas Hoop, Jacobean Snowflake, Yuzu + Apricot, Wild Seagrass, Botanical Tree and Cross Stitches.

3. Palestrina stitch

There’s a beautiful rhythm to doing Palestrina. Across. Up and under. Loop, through and down. It flows from your needle. And adds incredible texture to your work. It’s solid and substantial and feels really good to run your fingertips over. It’s ideal for adding texture to things like a lobster’s carapace or citrus peel. And when done in packed rows – with the knots of one lining up with the gaps of the other – it creates a solid area of texture that’s difficult to beat.

The “arms” of the knots give Palestrina versatility, too. Short and they disappear under the knot, creating a string of beads look. Long and they give the stitch a look of braid. And you can differ the lengths in the same row of stitching. Increasing them as you go down the row. Or placing them asymmetrically, so they’re longer on one side than the other; you can fill different shapes this way. This one stitch can create a lot of impact.

You can also play with the spacing of the knots, working them close together or further apart. Gaps between the knots create room to play. I like couching Palestrina with straight stitches in a different colour, for example.

On a practical level, Palestrina works well on straight and curved lines. And looks better and better the more strands of thread you use.

From patterns (clockwise spiral from top left) Sea Urchins II, Cotton Reels, Nature abc, Good Will Monograms, Shells, Anatomical Lobster, Botanical Tree, Oakenfold, Poinsettia and Wild Coral.

2. All-over stitch

I love the possibility this stitch offers. It’s simple, but so effective.

It can be used simply to fill a shape. Which looks gorgeous. But it can also be worked into the design, to create things like coral, foliage, sea grass and sweetcorn kernels. And that’s before you get to embroidering insects and creatures. It’s perfect for a snail’s skin or delicately filling a dragonfly’s wing.

All-over stitch also works well as shading, to add colour and depth. It’s easy and really satisfying to do. And fun to sketch before you stitch.

From patterns (clockwise spiral from top left) Evergreen Wreath, Pomegranate + Passion Fruit, Anatomical Snail, Wild Seagrass, Botanical Tree, Wild Coral and Sweetcorn.

1. Stem stitch

My go-to for smooth, elegant lines. Stem stitch can quickly outline a shape and I often use it to establish the “bones” of a design – to give it that clean look – before adding other stitches.

You can embroider in straight lines, along curves, in spirals and around sharp corners. And it works equally well for delicate and bold lines; stem stitch looks good whether you use one or all six strands of your embroidery cotton.

I like that you can switch colours easily in the middle of a row. They blend seamlessly into each other because of the overlapping structure of the stitch. Stem can also be used as a filling stitch. It’s really pleasing on the eye used this way. And because it holds any shape well, it makes beautiful monograms and lettering.

From patterns (clockwise from top left) Koi Fish, Classic Monograms, Anatomical Centipede, Nature abc, Cotton Reels and Yuzu + Apricot.

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I have a free masterclass available for you on how to do stem stitch well. It shows you step-by-step how to do stem stitch well, with tips on things like how to embroider sharp curves and around corners. 

Download Mastering Stem Stitch